Monday, June 11, 2007

HVX MODS - Again



I continue to receive questions about the lubrication mods described in 'HVX MODS' posted here on the 29th of May.

Several have asked for the dimensions of the drillings, which are included in the drawings. If you will double-click the drawing it should appear full-size.

A few voiced a reluctance to perform any modification that involves drilling holes in the crankcase.


Actually, we're merely deepening holes that are already there. In doing so we cause the holes to intersect and when that happens it causes the right-hand side of the engine to receive significantly more oil that it was getting before.










In the photos you can see how I've used a wrap of masking tape prevent drilling too far. I did not verify these lengths against the previously posted drawing, I simply used another -- already modified crankcase -- as a gauge. So it would be wise to verify the dimensions.


Some folks say they couldn't find a 7/32" aircraft drill. Which means they simply didn't look hard enough. But if all you have is 1/4" then use that.

For most, the tricky bit is drilling down through the #3 cam bearing saddle to intersect the extended tappet oil gallery. If you go too far you will have ruined the crankcase -- or at least make it rather difficult to repair. That means the safest method is to extend the horizontal oil gallery first and then drill cautiously down through the cam bearing saddle until you run into the new drilling.

After you do it a few times you won't even think about it; it is simply another step in preparing a new crankcase for use.

----------------------------------------

Finally, there were a few who suggested I was misleading homebuilders because such mods were clearly unnecessary, citing their own engine and years of experience as justification for their opinion. That opinion is fairly common among builders of recreational engines -- for dune buggies and the like; a toy to be taken out and played with for a few hours per year.

I don't think it serves any purpose to discuss why their present engine does not have these mods, any more than it does to argue the merit of the Model T over a modern-day vehicle. There's no question as to the value of these mods since their functional equivalent can be found in all modern-day engines including the Type IV Volkswagen.

Professional engine builders -- and I'm talking bucks-down racing where people pay up to ten grand for a race-winning engine -- have been using some or all of these mods for the last thirty years. In doing so they are merely retro-fitting modern-day engineering to a design that dates from the 1930's, not because of a whim or fad but as a means of improving the reliability of the engine.

The key point here is that you have to finish in order to win. The main purpose of the mods is to enhance the engine's durability. It seems only common sense to include them in a VW converted for flight, especially since they add no weight.

-R.S.Hoover

Saturday, June 9, 2007

AV - Tail Hook


I've called this a Tail Hook because I don't want people to use it for a glider hook, which is what it's usually called.

I made this one when I was drop-testing a landing gear. The maximum load was about 750 pounds and it handled that without any problems but it wasn't designed to tow a glider. Nor a banner. Or anything else.


But it does a nifty job of tying your tail down when you start the engine. Indeed, back when I was a kid a glider hook was often found on small planes that called for hand-starting.

The dimensions of the hook shown here were selected to match the tripod tower I used for my drop tests. But long as the function is not compromised you can make the thing out of just about any material, and of whatever size you need.




After cutting out the pieces I used a MIG welder to attach the side pieces to the mounting plate. With a bit of thought you can see how the side plates could be made from extruded aluminum angle and riveted to an aluminum mounting plate.






Similarly, the two pieces that make up the latching lever could also be fabricated from aluminum. But I think the hook should be made of steel. Not because of any strength issues but because you want the roller to bear against something harder than aluminum.

When installed, ensure the hook can flip all the way open. (See the photo.)

























AV - PULLING THE PLUG III


As mentioned in previous posts on this topic, socket-head pipe plugs are available as a bubble-pak'd item from after-market VW retailers. But as you can see in the photo the plugs are not anodized and do not include the 1/16-NPT size that is the best fit for the small oil galleries. (They give you 1/8-NPT's instead.)

However, this set of plugs may be the best option for lo-buck builders, who often substitute brass fittings for the full-flow oil filter connection and a brass 1/2-to-1/8 NPT bushing for installing the oil temperature sensor.

-R.S.Hoover

OIL PLUGS - II


After posting 'Oil Plugs' on 1 June '07 several people wrote to tell me there were other types of control valve plugs available. Which I already knew... but the fact they thought I didn't means a lot of you might not be aware of what's out there, especially with regard to parts suitable for flying Volkswagens.

So let's take care of that.

Go over and click on the photo. (Don't mind the cat; he always does that.)


The left-most plug is the stock item. Next to it is a plug that has an M12 crankcase nut welded to it. Two of the flats are drilled for safety wire.

The two socket-head plugs in the middle of the picture are typical after-market parts. If you're careful and use the right set-up you can drill these for safety wire.

But the plugs I prefer to use are the hex-head type shown on the right-hand side of the picture. To drill them for safety wire I first open them up with a half-inch Slocum... what folks usta call a center-drill. (I think half-inch is about a #4.) Once you've opened them up axially you chuck them in a drill-vise and drill each of the six faces with a 1/16" drill bit spinning about 3000 rpm. I use a drop of hi-sulphur cutting oil. The drillings are then chamfered so as not to notch the safety wire.

Building just one engine means drilling only two plugs, which is a pain in the ass since it takes longer to do the set-up than to do the work. It becomes more efficient if you do about two dozen plugs at a time - - enough for twelve engines -- since that distributes the set-up across the whole batch. (Yeah, I know... but there it is.)

-------------------------------------------

Mixed in with the friendly messages from people pointing out that other plugs are available was a couple that took me to task for even thinking about safety-wiring the plugs. As they pointed out, they had never had one come loose and that the odds of one doing so was probably ten-thousand to one.

Which is why we want to safety wire the things :-)

A lot of folks will miss that and beating them over the head with it is a waste of time, in my opinion. The truth is, there's a few threaded fasteners for which you can't provide safety wire or a Cotter key. But when you can you always do so even if the odds are 1:10000 because it shifts the odds even farther in your favor.

-R.S.Hoover

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

Diet Cookies




Put a quarter pound of butter and a quarter pound of lard into a small sauce pan to melt. Don’t let it get too hot.

Light the oven and set it to 350F.

Into a large bowl put:

1-1/2 cup of flour
1-1/2 cup of rolled oats
1 teaspoon of salt
1 teaspoon of baking powder
½ cup of granulated white sugar

If your flour has weevils, sift them out. Then whisk all the dry stuff together.

Break-up half a cupful of walnuts into quarter-inch chunks.
Break-up half a cupful of raisins into individual raisins. Mix with the chunked walnuts and fold the mixture into the large bowl containing your other dry ingredients.

Into a bowl of about 2-qt size:

2 regular-size eggs
3 tablespoons dark molasses
Dash of milk

Whip this together into a smooth emulsion. Add the melted grease. Keep whipping. It should form a thick tan batter. (Be damn sure the grease isn’t more than room temperature or it will cook the eggs and make a mess.)

Now add the liquid-stuff to the dry-stuff. Stir & fold until you have a uniformly colored mixture.

If you want thin cookies, leave the dough as it is. If you want thicker cookies, put the dough in the refrigerator or ice-box until it has cooled off. The picture at the opening of this article is of cookies baked from chilled dough. The pix over there on the right is how they come out when the dough is warm.

Scoop the dough out of the bowl in heaping teaspoonfuls. As with most pastries the stuff is mostly grease and will spread like wax as it bakes. Chilling the dough allows it to rise a bit higher and spread slightly less.

Use whatever pan(s) you have. Spray or grease them first. I use pizza pans for just about everything . You can get nine or ten cookie-lumps on a pizza pan.

The cookies are done when their edges are brown for at least a quarter of an inch. When hot, they won’t have any strength so be careful how you scoop them off the pizza pan (or scrap aluminum. Or whatever). Should take ten to twelve minutes depending on your altitude and the accuracy of your oven’s thermometer.

Makes about four dozen.

– - - - - - - - - - - - -

You can use any kind of dried fruit you wish, so long as you chunk it up to raisin-size. Ditto for the nuts.

If you got women around, don’t mention the butter & lard. Women go a bit strange when it comes to cooking. (Tell them you used Crisco... which you can, if you wish. But try the Real Stuff first. Big difference in the taste.)

If you're serious about learning how to cook, see Fannie Farmer for how most other folks do it.

- - - - - - - - - - - -

Back when I was writing the Great American Novel I had an agent, a nice lady from Brooklyn who tried terribly hard to sell my bad writing. She was always after me to write something she could sell -- romances or a cookbook. "I can always place a cookbook." How could she be so sure? "Easy! We just stick diet in the title."

There’s no such thing as a diet cookie of course, except in the minds of fat people. Cookies - - good ones - - are mostly sugar and grease with a dab of flour to hold it together. But if you add some fruit & nuts you’ll pick up a few vitamins & minerals (along with more sugar & fat :-) Whatever the case, cuppa black coffee and a couple of cookies will make you a meal when you’re too busy to cook.

-R.S.Hoover

(NOTE: A couple of folks took me to task for interrupting my engine assembly narrative with a cookie recipe. But it isn't anything new. If you'll dig around in the blog you'll find posts describing how I make biscuits, beans and how to cook in the boondocks. In fact, most of my travel reports [Alaska, Baja, etc.] include a few recipes. These happen to be pretty good cookies, something worth sharing.)

Monday, June 4, 2007

Sparkin' on the Cheap



Flying isn’t that hard. Birds fly. So do fish. Even insects. But if you wanna enjoy the thrill of powered flight you’ll probably need an engine and if it gets its power from burning gasoline then you gotta figger out some way to light the fire. Always been something of a problem, lighting the fire. Back during our Civil War they used what they called a ‘glow tube’ to light the fire. Closed brass or silver tube, closed end inside the combustion chamber, open out outside being heated by a kerosene or acetylene lamp. Actually worked, too. Engine put out nearly half a horsepower at about 100rpm and only weighed about 700 pounds.

State of the art, 1865.

Of course, soon as they had an engine, some kid wanted to make himself a motorsickle. Or mebbe a hot-rod.

Didn’t work too good. Soon as the thing started to move it would usually blow out the kerosene lamp, glow tube would cool off, engine would crap out. Ignition failure. Civil War motorcycle gang, Nazi helmets, Originals stiff as a board, lined up there on the side of the road... Hell of a problem.

Some guys used spark ignition. Low voltage, make & break stuff. But that meant a buncha batteries and they weren’t all that good back before we had the Energizer Bunny. Or they could generate their own lektrcity. Mike Whats-his-name... Faraday... had figgered out how to generate lektricity about thirty years before. All you had to do was twirly a coil of wire between the poles of a magnet and lektricity would magically appear in the coil. Unfortunately Civil War magnets weren’t any better than Civil War batteries. Just soft iron bars. Oh, you could magnetize the things but not very much nor for very long. If you wanted to produce the same amount of current you’d get from your bank of batteries you needed some humungous magnets, size of a wagon wheel. Magnets that big, your lektricity-maker ended up weighing about the same as the batteries, not only because you needed a lot of big soft iron magnets but because your coil was kinda fat. Big wire. And the insulation was just string or varnished thread wrapped around the wires, which pushed the wires pretty far apart so you needed a BIG coil to get any juice. And slip-rings, since you had to get the juice out of the coil once you made it.

Folks called it a ‘magneto’ because of the magnets, I guess. First ones weighed about a hundred pounds. But it actually worked and you ended up with an engine that was handier than steam because you didn’t ned a firebox and a boiler. Not a real handy engine, of course. Heavy as hell. Didn’t put out a lot of power and only ran at one speed. But the fire was all inside and there wasn’t any boiler to explode and you could run the thing yourself; didn’t need a certified Engineer.

Wasn’t a Hog of course but the thing did go. Bad as it was, it sold like hot-cakes since it cost less than a small steam-powered engine. And because it sold like hot-cakes a lot of people were building them. And improving them, too.

Twenty years goes by. Engines got smaller and more powerful. So did the magneto, thanks mostly to Elisha Gray, who developed a geared magneto that could produce nearly forty volts, thanks to stronger magnets, smaller wire, better insulation and those gears. That made the thing small enough to fit inside his telephones. Spin the crank, it could generate enough juice to trip the indicator down at Central, tell the operator you were on the line. Couldn’t use light bulbs because Edison hadn’t finished stealing the idea from Swan just yet but the solenoid-actuated ringdown indicator worked pretty good, assuming you weren’t too far from Central and the iron wire running along the fence posts wasn’t too rusty.

Better magneto made for a better engine but most real engines, like the ones in the trucks that could now be found all over Europe, still used glow tubes. Which sat the truck on fire now & then but glow tubes were more reliable than that silly Mag-Neat-Oh or that Make & Break method of generating the spark, rubbing the piston against the Sparking Rod inside the combustion chamber.

Stationary internal combustion engines had come even farther. Now that most towns had electric lighting they used a door bell arrangement to generate an alternating current that could be stepped-up by a transformer and fed to a spark plug, just as soon as they invented spark plugs. Didn’t work for those trucks, though. The vibrating reed-relay that buzzed those coils up to as much as five thousand volts was a real power hog and ran down your dry cells quick like a bunny.

Which is why the Wright brothers used Make & Break to light their fire. No spark plugs. Friction-drive magneto pressed into service as a dynamo, powered by putting a little wheel on the input shaft and letting it rub against the flywheel - - gave them about ten volts. Sparking bar inside the combustion chamber. Tried & true ignition system, having been in use for nearly fifty years by the time the Wright brothers flew. They’d heard about a new-fangled high-voltage magneto developed by a German outfit. Put out enough voltages to jump the gap on a spark plug, assuming you had spark plugs, which the Wright’s didn’t. Not at first.

Robert Bosch got into the magneto game in 1887 and made a pretty good magneto, although not very many of them. By 1896 he’d only sold a thousand of the things but he kept plowing the money back into the business, improving his product. Because everyone understood that if you wanted to make a hot-rod or a motorcycle you couldn’t afford the half-ton weight of the typical gasoline engine. Trucks, okay. But not motorcycles or flying machines or a Z-car. For that you needed a light engine. But it had to be a powerful light engine and all else being equal, that meant it would have to spin at a fantastic rate of speed, probably more than A THOUSAND REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE, which was a lot faster than any engine was running at that time. Try running a Make&Break ignition at a thousand rpm, it’d break off the Sparking Rod or the insulated seal around the Sparking Rod gland-nut would leak even more than it already did and steal all your power. Carl Benz, a friend of Bob’s and another early car nut, referred to the ignition puzzle as “...the problem of all problems.” He said that in 1880 and odds are, he was still saying it in 1896. Nope. Couldn’t do it.

Actually, you could do it... if you used a sparking Plug with a fixed gap instead of Make & Break with its moveable Spark Rod with its variable gap. In fact, they’d already done it with stationary engines. But to jump the gap on a sparking Plug you needed thousands of volts, not just tens of volts. And while you could make that kind of voltage by plugging your ignition system into the wall, or powering a vibrator with a bank of batteries, nobody knew how to do that with a magneto.

Except for a guy named Gottlob Honold, who worked for Bob Bosch. And even Gottlob wasn’t sure he could do it, he just had this idea about how, maybe, it could be done, based on a couple of principles about inductance that Mike Faraday laid down fifty years before and some of the tricks Elisha Gray had come up with. Gottlob was lucky enough to be working for Bob, winding coils for those thousand pretty-good magnetos. Bosch who told him, Sure, take your best shot at it. Which Gottlob did, solving one problem after another over a span of five years or so until December of 1901 rolled around and he showed his boss a working model of a reliable, dependable magneto that put out enough juice to be used with a spark plug. “You really have hit the bulls-eye!” said Bosch. (But in German, of course.) By 1906 Bosch magnetos was bringing in over a million dollars a year, thanks to Gottlob Honold, who was given a raise and allowed to take Saturdays off.

What Gottlob had done was to put a transformer inside the magneto and to apply a couple of known but heretofore undeveloped electrical theories to make the transformer kick out a hot, blue-white spark exactly when needed, using an electrical switch driven by the magneto. Once the spark was generated it was connected to the proper spark plug via a rotary switch that was also driven by the magneto. The first switch, which controls the flow of juice to the primary side of the transformer, is what we today call the ‘points’ while the second switch, the one that directs the output of the secondary winding to the spark plug, is called the rotor and distributor cap.

Starting to sound familiar? Well, it should. Because the principle of spark ignition has remained pretty much the same right up to this day, despite something better having come along in the 1960's.

As soon as the Bosch high-tension magneto hit the market everyone started copying it. Or trying to improve on it. Like a young guy named Charles Franklin Kettering who worked for the National Cash Register Company in Dayton, Ohio. Which just happens to be where the Wright’s hailed from. In a sense, Dayton was the Silicon Valley of its day.

Magnetos were nice. Nice and expensive. Each was virtually hand-made. Their superb quality ensured their reliability but it also guaranteed the need for a high level of skill to maintain and repair them. They were a complete generating set and ignition system compressed in a tidy little package. And if any single part of that tidy little package went bad, the thing wouldn’t work and finding someone who knew how to fix it was roughly the same as for finding fur on a turtle.

But magnetos weren’t perfect. Since the amount of juice provided by the permanent magnet dynamo was proportional to the rotating speed of the coil, they were a bitch to hand-start. Once you got the buggy running things were okay. The faster it ran, the better the spark, up to the point where the electrical insulation began to break down. Hand-cranked on a cold morning? Forget it. Ford’s buzz-box ‘ignitors’ were the hands-down winner when it came to crank-starts because when you got right down to it, your horseless carriage was pretty much of a joke if you couldn’t start the thing. And for a lot of folks, crank-starting a car was about like programming their VCR.

Chuck Kettering thought about the problem for a while then decided to take the magneto apart. Instead of that niffty little permanent magnet dynamo to provide the juice he decided to run the thing off a big lead-acid car battery. To keep the battery charged you’d have to fit the engine with some kind of electrical generator but now that Edison had copied the light bulb folks were even using them on cars, not only to replace the blindingly expensive acetylene-powered driving lights but even for that new fad of having a light come on when you stepped on the brake. (Cute. But it’ll never catch on.) And besides, Chuck had a crazy idea about replacing the hand-crank with an electrically powered starter-motor, for which you’d need big battery... and some means of recharging it.

After tearing the magneto apart and spreading it around the table Chuck saw how you could retain the transformer principle that gave you such a nice hot spark while eliminating most of the complexity that made magnetos so expensive. Instead of building the transformer inside the magneto Chuck Kettering wound a new transformer, one you could bolt anywhere you wanted it. He put the points in a device driven off the engine’s cam. The points went into the bottom part of the thing. The top part was reserved for the task of distributing high voltage from the coil to the individual spark plugs, which everyone started calling the ‘distributor’ about ten seconds after Chuck invented the damn thing.

Now you had all the pieces of an effective spark-ignition system spread out where you could get at them. The components were larger and designed for mass production; no brains required. If a part of the system went bad, any damn fool, meaning you, could simply replaced that particular part and drive on. What you ended up with was a cheap, easily manufactured ignition system that was inexpensive, reasonably reliable, didn’t cost very much and took virtually no skill at all to maintain. And it was cheap. Best of all, it actually worked. (Did I mention it was cheap? Cuz it was, compared to a magneto.)

Genius or not, Charles Kettering hadn’t improved on the magneto in the electrical sense. Indeed, at high speed the Kettering ignition system doesn’t work nearly so well as a magneto. But boy did it make an engine easy to start! And it was cheap, too.

Auto makers loved it. At least, most of them. Ford stuck to his own patents. A fellow named Sloan, maker of a car he called the ‘Cadillac,’ took one look at Charles Kettering’s ignition system and said, “I take a million of them, please.” (Or words to that effect :-)

Which isn’t to say magnetos vanished. Far from it. But over the years the Kettering-type ignition system got better an’ better while magnetos stayed pretty much the same.

First big improvement was getting rid of that distributor with its rotor and graphite button and all them sparks as the thing whirled around. Just a year after Boss Kettering patented his ignition system a feller in England started using it on a two-cylinder motorsickle. What he did was to wind the coil with a center ground so that both ends of the secondary were hot. Snap the points, which you could now mount just about anywhere, and you got two sparks, one from each end of the winding. He wired the sparks to his two cylinders and roared off to win the Isle of Man.

Waaait a minute. Howz that gonna work, both cylinders firing at the SAME time. But the feller just smiled and roared off. From that day to this no one has been able to figure out how a Waste Spark ignition system works, largely because Auto Shop 101 doesn’t do a very good job of teaching how real engines work. But I’ll give you a hint: It doesn’t really matter what the other cylinder is doing when the spark fires. So long as that jug is near TDC on the compression cycle, then the engine will run... because if that jug is near TDC it means its twin is near TDC on the exhaust cycle, because that’s how Otto Cycle engines operate. The Good News is that you got to toss that damn distributor in the trash. You still had a set of points... somewhere. But they didn’t cause nearly so much trouble as that wonky distributor cap and rotor and having the ignition leads running all over the place.

That was in 1920, by the way.

In 1960 I built my first electronic ignition system and I wasn’t the first guy to do so (I hold a General Class ham radio ticket; hams are always fooling with stuff like that). Later on I built a capacitance-discharge ignition system. And a little while after that I built an ignition system that runs off a dilithium crystal, which worked great except those damn crystals became rare as hen’s teeth after they canceled ‘Star Trek.’

Nowadays they’re working on a spark plug that contains its own coil which also happens to be a fuel injector. But that can’t be right, according to Auto Shop 101 :-) It's also possible for someone building their own airplane to put together an ignition system that is more durable and more reliable than the traditional magneto. Wanna know how? Just stay tuned.

-R.S.Hoover

Sunday, June 3, 2007

Crank Basics - I


When you build an engine from scratch you must round-up all the ancillary parts. In a previous article describing how to prepare the crankcase I’ve mentioned various kits of parts meant to ease this task. Unfortunately, such kits may not be as convenient as they appear.

The same situation applies to your crankshaft in that it requires a number of additional parts to make it usable. Here again, retailers offer kits but the odds are you’ll run into the same problems as with case-kits or hardware-kits.

A typical crankshaft kit contains a pair of Woodruff keys, the cam gear, spacer, distributor scroll gear, distributor pinion gear, two end-play shims, the oil slinger and a snap-ring. Typical price (April 2007) is about $50. Unfortunately, the kit is not complete, lacking a very critical spring. And it may not be complete with regard to your specific crankcase. Nor do they mention that some of the parts in the kit are liable to be used. (Note the wear marks on that pinion gear!)



The biggest potential problem is that such kits are liable to contain a cam gear from a 36hp engine. Such mix-ups don’t happen very often but like a mid-air collision, once is enough. (The two gears on the left are okay; the one on the right is for the earlier engine.)









Here is a kit of guaranteed-used parts I salvaged from junked engines at the cost of tearing them down. (Note the 'unimportant' little spring... that plays a critical role in reducing wear.)






The salvaged pinion (on the right) not only has less wear than the pinion from the after-market kit, I've treated it with a baked-on, dry film lubricant (Tech-Line Coatings DFL-1).






After failing to include the required spring I suppose it’s no surprise to see the notorious Racer Spacer included in such kits. The stock spacer ring has been known to fail on the drag-strip and on engines that regularly turn above 5000rpm. That makes the ten dollar Racer Spacer an absolute necessity... according to the ‘experts’ :-)

In fact, the stock spacer works perfectly well on flying Volkswagens, costs about six-bits and weighs less than the Racer Spacer.


External snap-ring pliers are one of the tools you'll need to assemble and disassemble the crankshaft. The jack-knife gives you some idea as to their size.






The jaws should look like this. Get a good pair. If they let the snap-ring slip it can bugger the #4 bearing journal. (The pair shown are Craftsman [brand name], about 30 years old. They've done a few engines :-)






You're also going to need an hydraulic press with a press-plate to match the cam gear, or a VW-specific gear-puller as shown below. Do not try to use a regular gear-puller for this task. You'll simply bugger the teeth of the cam gear, a very common problem on amateur-built engines. VW gear pullers are commonly available but they don't come cheap.





This one is kinda tatty-looking. I've had it for a while; had to repair it once or twice. Still works okay but I generally use an hydraulic press.






If you have access to a lathe and welding equipment you can make your own VW-gear puller for much less than the cost of buying one. The critical dimension here is the lip that supports the gear-teeth.



And along about here someone always says, "I won't need this becuz I'm only assembling the engine."

Dead wrong.

One of the most critical parts of engine assembly is balancing all of the rotating components. In the case of the crankshaft, it must be balanced in its fully assembled state (less any reciprocating components, such as the connecting rods). That means everything that attaches to the crankshaft and which rotates on the same axis must be installed at the time the assemblage is balanced. Everything... Gears, prop-hub, magneto drive, coaxial dynamo or what-ever. (Just another of those 'unimportant' little details :-)

(See the picture? The complete crankshaft assembly, from fan-pulley to flywheel, is being dynamically balanced.)


Then you take it all apart again for cleaning, installation of the #3 bearing and so forth. So you do need the gear-puller... if you want to build a good engine.

-R.S.Hoover